Sunday, March 27, 2011

An Ethiopian, a Palm Civet Cat and a Judge Walk into a Brew Bar...

It is a funny feeling to come upon one's preferences quite suddenly, as if simultaneously running into an old friend around a street corner and identifying him for the first time.

At first cupping, the Ethiopian Djimmah stood head and shoulders above a rather earthy Sumatran Madheling and dependable Brazilian Santos although the Japanese neighbour preferred the Sumatran.

Then at Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011 (Singapore's Suntec Convention Centre), while others had photos taken with towering shiny Probat roasters and coffee industry stars, I stood gobsmacked at this sight:
Starbucks, Tribute Blend + Hario Buono Drip Kettle + Melitta Filter Holder, Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011
It shouldn't have come as too much of a surprise since Howard Schultz's re-education (or good marketing story) and the company's monopoly on Clover machines has already been widely reported. The Starbucks booth, fooling no one with their new nameless logos, was serving a mix of "aged Sumatran" and "sun-dried Ethiopian" in their 40th Anniversary Tribute Blend - note ubiquitous (and very useful until someone manufactures something better) Hario Buono drip kettle, Melitta single-serve drip filter holders on a rack (the Marina Square branch was selling the filter holders for S$8.90). Somewhat fragrant, safe and clean, just not terribly attention-retaining.

La Marzocco Strada, Oriole Coffee Roasters, Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011 Flat White with Ethiopian Sidamo espresso base, Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011
What left a very long and pleasant after-taste that compelled me to look for more of the same the next day, was the Ethiopian Sidamo offered by Oriole Coffee Roasters just across from the Starbucks booth.They'd put the beans in their spanking new La Marzocco Strada (Singapore's first say some), despite crowd-opinion about putting Ethiopians only in filters and siphons, and what a good call - in an espresso, the florals and citrus were squeezed into a nice round body. The obvious sweetness of the coffee juice was different from the sweetness of steamed milk, so when paired with dairy, the drink teetered on the edge of too-much-of-two-good-things. Still, a lovely cup. There are no plans to serve the Sidamo on the machine at the Oriole Cafe & Bar for now...if only we had the taste/olfactory equivalent of a snapshot of this one-off.

(We realised later that Romeo Alfen might have been practising for the finals of the Singapore National Barista Championships 2011. The next day, he based his routine on that very same single origin, 80% roasted to half-city on the Diedrich and the rest roasted full-city, rested for 10 days.)(Ryan Kieran Tan of Papa Palheta eventually swept the top prize for both the Greenfields Latte Art Challenge as well as the Singapore National Barista Championships.)

Ethiopia Harrar, Oriole Coffee Roasters Ethiopia Harrar from Oriole Coffee Roasters + Hario V60 drip + Hario Buono drip kettle
Ethiopia Harrar from Oriole Coffee Roasters + Hario Skerton grinder + Hario V60 drip + Hario Buono drip kettle
Since there weren't any packs of the Sidamo to be had from Oriole Coffee Roasters, settled for an Ethiopian Harrar instead from the Yirgacheffe (and?) Harrar region. It was a mixed heirloom varietal, dry-processed. Oriole's tasting notes enthused about floral notes and bergamot, blueberry flavours, smooth and clean acidity, balance of fruit notes and sweetness. Ethiopia heirloom varietals from the wild forests are said to resemble the typicas from Yemen which were brought to Indonesia and later Latin America. Stumptown Coffee Roasters say that heirlooms produce some of the most coveted flavours in the world that, ranging from floral (jasmine in particular), to sweetly citric (distinct lemon), to chocolate, to Assam tea, and to wild berries. This bag from Oriole had a lovely floral aftertaste 5 days from roasting - coffee breath begone! and was exceptionally good with buttery Danish biscuits.

Brew method: Hario V60
Grind size: between 2-3 notches from zero on the Hario Skerton
Dose weight: 13g
Brew water temperature: 93 degrees celcius
Brew water weight: 161g
Time from roast: 5 days

Papa Palheta Specialty Coffee, Hooper Road Papa Palheta Specialty Coffee, Hooper Road
Papa Palheta Specialty Coffee, Hooper Road
The Ethiopian Yirgacheffe from Papa Palheta, wet processed, city to full-city roast, S$15.00 for 250g. Papa P's tasting notes described cane sugar sweetness with honey and floral flavours.

Brew method: Hario V60 drip filter pourover
Dose weight: 13g
Brew water weight: whatever it takes to fill the glass
Brew water temperature: 93 degrees celcius

Yirgacheffe is grown around the town of Yirgacheffe in the middle of Sidamo at around 1800-2000 meter altitude (on average). Yirgacheffe is wet processed and generally known for giving a clean cup with powerful floral and fruit notes. Some have described a good cup as "beginning with sublime aromas of sweet sugary honey and hints of cedar and raisin, it is then followed by a well balanced floral acidity in the cup. The flavours are very up front and straight away there is berry, citrus and soft cocoa with a subtle underlining of Mediterranean herbs. These flavours are on the bright side but they bring a well toned smoothness and medium body to the pallet, and as the cup cools the aromatic herbs come to the forefront."

Ethiopia is known more generally for its famines and internal strife (and attendant distasteful jokes) than the quality of its coffee. But the internets point to Ethiopia as the birthplace of coffee, the Motherland of the Arabica Bean, the Motherlode of Black Gold. It is the currently the seventh largest producer in the world, with tens of thousands of farms gardens in the regions of Harar, Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, Limmu and Djimmah. Several hundred thousands of heirloom varietals also grow indigenously and abundantly in the wild forests of the country. ("Wild forests" may not mean wild forests, really.)

Sadly, little can be known about this treasure trove of beans because of the centralisation of all coffee exports through the Ethiopia Commodity Exchange (ECX) in 2008. Lots are thrown together and thus anonymised upon arrival at the ECX so accurate information of the precise traceability of coffees is impossible to be had. The pooled beans would also obviously be rather hit-and-miss, the only identifier being the region and not a specific farm or altitude or varietal. Cupping then is very important to separate the wheat from the chaff. Cup quality from bags labelled, for example, "Yirgacheffe", might vary wildly.

Last year however, the ECX set up the Ethiopian Direct Specialty Trade (DST) auction which allowed smaller lots to be auctioned off, erm, directly. Read Tim (Counter Culture)'s report here, Stephen Vick's report here, Max Nicholas-Fulmer's account here. Doesn't seem too different from Willem Boot's ECAFE Foundation from 2005, except that the government gets a cut - in 1998, all coffee had to be sold through a handful of government-sanctioned exporters. Later, at the end of decades of communist rule and civil strife, unions were organised by farmers and these by-passed the government system.

Several American specialty coffee have managed to go to source for cupping and a look-around:
Counter Culture
Sweet Maria
Daniel Humphries
Stumptown Coffee Roasters
David Pohl for Equator Coffees & Teas
Get me on the Ethiopian Cupping Caravan already.

God in a Cup
But they could not bring the beans out with them. Ethiopian coffee is hard work not only because of the roadblock that is the ECX, but getting coffee physically out of the country is in itself an issue. Michaele Weismann's God In A Cup from 2008 reports of several roasters asking Menno Simons of Trabocca BV, a sourcer of organic coffees in Africa, for their beans. The late shipments were not his fault - coffee export defaulting continued to be an issue in 2010. And there was the bizarre disappearance of 9 million kilogrammes of coffee on route for export.

Because we live at a time when it's not even politically-correct to speak of the white man's burden, though any discussion concerning a developing country's exports necessarily requires ethical-soothers for importers in developed countries - the campaigns behind headings like "How can Ethiopia's coffee farmers get more from your £2 latte?" appeal to such tender social consciences. But the issue with this, as with all other foreign intervention, is whether such programmes really work. In Weismann's book, Peter Giuliano explained that when the coffee unions got coffees certified as organic and Fair Trade, big money started pouring in. But corruption and mismanagement was not far behind and farmers were not paid for their crop despite co-operatives being paid. Fair trade has also been accused of forcing farmers into co-operatives, requiring them to borrow money to pay certification fees, and basically failing to understand cultural or country-specific realities. Hopefully, this will not be on the scale of the boo-boos of the Green Revolution which led to deforestation in Africa. The good thing about Fair Trade though is that they provide a safety net on falling prices.

With Ethiopia, there is also the usual suspicion of the activity of large multinationals, specifically, Starbucks opposing Ethiopia's attempt to trademark geographical indicators Sidamo and Harar. I'd like some further questions to be asked - why trademark rather than certificate of origin? Who exactly will be the trademark owner - Meles Zenawi? Does this mean that if farmers from Sidamo or Harar sell their crop directly to specialty coffee roasters, they cannot imprint the regional appellation without paying the trademark owner?

Perhaps direct trade, a la Intelligentsia, might be the way forward?

JJ Royal Indonesian Coffee, Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011 Coffee Alamid, Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011
In the eyes of the, erm, tongue, the civet cat poo coffees have now been knocked down to second place by the Ethiopians. But I still sought them out. Previously, I'd gotten my fix of cà phê Chồn during regular visits to Ho Chi Minh City (where there were rumours that hydrogen chloride was used instead of the digestive tract of relatives of the mongoose). At Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011, JJ Royal offered brewed kopi luwak from flasks - a good way to showcase its unique flavour and didn't leave room for error for the in-house barista. Bote Central's coffee alamid booth from Philippines pulled a rather harsh espresso on my turn so although the aroma of the bean was in present, the cup itself wasn't terribly pleasant which was a pity.

All contemporary coffee conversations appear to revolve around the variables that make up a good cup (there are also conversations about post-postmodernism, critical theory and the objectivity of a quality brew). Other than the bean itself - its varietal, the region and altitude at which it was grown, the influence of the weather and soil on its growth etc, there's also how the bean is processed - the washing and drying and milling and storage,

Probat, Tea & Coffee World Cup  Singapore 2011
Probat roasting workshop, because everyone's a micro-roaster
then the roasting - from light, cinnamon to full city to continental to, oops, charcoal,

Cupping and Blending Workshop, Wolff Coffee Roasters, Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011 Cupping and Blending Workshop by Peter and Penny Wolff, Tea & Coffee World Cup Singapore 2011
Peter and Penny Wolff from Wolff Coffee Roasters conducting the blending workshop
then, if not serving single estate or single origin, there's the blending of the beans. (The green beans can also blended before roasting.)

Winter Espresso 2010/2011, Square Mile Coffee Roasters Hario Skerton 2-turns-from-zero Grind, Winter Espresso 2010/2011, Square Mile Coffee Roasters
Hario Skerton Grinder + Aeropress + Winter Espresso 2010/2011, Square Mile Coffee Roasters + Hario Buono Drip Kettle
Square Mile Coffee Roasters' Winter Espresso + Hario Skerton grinder + Hario Buono drip kettle + Aeropress
It was really interesting to taste how the Ethiopian Yirgacheffe (albeit an identifiable from the Hama Cooperative in Kocherie) hung out with the Monte Alegre from Sul de Minas Gerais in Brazil, the El Guabo from San Ignacio, Cajamarca, Peru and random micromill blend from Tarrazu, Costa Rica in Square Mile Coffee Roasters' Winter Espresso blend.

Highlander Coffee Mypressi Twist + Highlander Coffee Supremo Blend
Highlander Coffee's Supremo blend on the machine at 49 Kampong Bahru Road vs on the mypressi TWIST at home
Served single origin or in a blend, the coffee must then be extracted by different methods (drip, siphon, Aeropress, espresso machine etc). The grind of the bean, the water temperature, the water to coffee ratio, extraction yield, total dissolved solids, pressure profiling (for espresso) etc all contribute to the characteristics of the drink.

MoJotoGo - Coffee Lite
So of course there is an iPhone app for this - MoJotoGo - even the Coffee Lite version has been useful.

Latte, Soho7 Cafe & Bistro, 36 Armenian Street
Soho 7 Cafe & Bistro, 36 Armenian Street, along Loke Yew Street
Then, there is the skill of the barista, especially where coupling with dairy is involved. The same National Heritage blend, not more than three days old, also accompanied by the Best Ever Burger at SoHo7 Cafe & Bistro,
Best Ever Burger, Soho7 Cafe & Bistro, 36 Armenian Street
was delicious in a latte made by Swee Sim, a vast difference from the previous "flat white" by a different person.

Great progress has been made in articulating what can be known about coffee, yet there there is still so much more to understand which National Geographic et al cannot hope to plumb the depths of (and it is merely one in millions of plants in the world). This is nothing compared to the wonder of God working in the Book of Judges, but without fair trade or direct trade considerations. Afterall, one would expect the God who made the coffea family, to do even more amazing things with his people.

The details of his various rescues of the people of Israel are far more fascinating than the refractometer readings of a good cup of the mythical Hacienda La Esmeralda Special. So far, we've had Ehud the leftie with a two-edged dagger in the hideously fat Eglon's roof chamber, Shamgar with an ox-goad, and Jael the non-Israelite woman with a tent-peg in her own tent (read Judges 3 - 5 - absolutely riverting).

People have tried to apply these accounts by saying that lack of gifting in some area should not dissuade one from serving in that area. This seems a nonsense since (1) elsewhere we are told that God gives us all unique ways of serving the body (so an eye should not wish to be a thumb when it is obviously an instrument of sight), and (2) this is really about the glory going to no one but God - whereas hunky heroes and the latest in iron chariot technology would induce little more than neighbour envy and self-improvement workshops, salvation via such random judges can mean that only God is at work. This looked forward to the day a son of a carpenter (though not fathered by him) would wrought a rescue to end all rescues with no other weapon but his own perfect obedience and his life blood.

Will we trust and obey him? Or will we, like the stubborn Israelites call God's judgement upon ourselves?

Winter Espresso 2010/2011, Square Mile Coffee Roasters and its friends
(Another surprising discovery: whereas the previous assumption was that I was immune to the effects of caffeine, it appears now that coffee has a soporific effect. After ten espressos/espresso-based drinks, the struggle to keep awake is almost overwhelming. Apparently, this is common amongst ADD/ADHD folk and caffeine has in fact been recommended by everyoneisanexpertontheinternet as an alternative to Ritalin. So much for the efficacy of that morning cup.

Angry Birds Seasons - St. Patrick's Day Angry Birds Seasons - St. Patrick's Day
Angry Birds - Ham 'Em High Angry Birds - Ham 'Em High
Angry Birds Rio Angry Birds Rio
Angry Birds Rio Angry Birds Rio
Angry Birds - Seasons: St Patrick's Day, Ham 'Em High, Rio (love the programming of the monkeys)
Video/computer/iPhone games are supposed to have the same effect. Haha...wheeeeeeeeeee!)

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Sunday, March 13, 2011

The Flat Whites (and Some Caps) of Singapore and The Failed Humans of the World

On the way to lunch, the newly-minted owner of a naff Nespresso from Nestlé and I were drawn into a cafe by fresh coffee smells and a fire-engine red roaster in the window. A short discussion and rush of related questions commencing with "But why...?" led to the witch's cottage in the deep dark woods. And I forgot to leave a bread crumb trail.

But for once, instead of being a fussy old drag unreasonably picky about perfectly decent chicken ("What do you mean it tastes like dead chicken? It's dead!") and clear sanitary water ("What do you mean it tastes like dead water? Water doesn't live!"), what has now been termed a "sensitive palate" (though one ought not be too optimistic since "tastes like the fag end of a wet bad cigarette" doesn't a coffee cognoscenti make) actually contributes to interesting conversation with neighbouring coffee enthusiasts.

Aerin's
Cappuccinos at Aerin's
The modern coffee enthusiast neighbour seems to be all about coffee use that is open platform, lo-fi, Coffee Common at TED, collaboration not competition, slow-food, third wave, similar non-homogenuity, commodities de-commodified, artisanal world barista championship wins; he is origin and terroir-obsessed and geekily discerning. He supports sustainable direct trade, and is enthusiastic about traceable microlot coffee micro-roasted then precisely ground and exactingly brewed to individual order by a tattooed barista. Simple pleasures fetished into luxuries.

(Coffee as traded commodity is still very current. And it still features in those macro-economics exam questions.

And of course, allegations of climate change and global warming cannot be too far away: Columbia, Costa Rica)

Barracks, Dempsey
Cappuccinos at Barracks Cafe, Dempsey House
The days of coffee as chair-and-wifi rental (and so imbibed with more than a few spoonfuls of sugar and cream to help the bad espresso-based bitterness go down) have been swept away, not by attention to consumption alone, but by the eye-widening focus on quality in the cup, specific origins, production methods, roasting and preparation styles.

Experimenting with old Papa Palheta's Terra Firma Blend Coffee via Hario V60 Pour-over, helped along by Hario Buono Drip Kettle
The newest arrival to the party in Singapore appears to be the pour-over. Previously as welcome as the comb-over, the pour-over has already done a tour of New York, with Hario of Japan* supplying the gadgetry of choice to the design-conscious - lovely ribbed V60s (though some swear by the Coava's stainless steel kone used with a Chemex as profiled in The Kitchn), and delicate swan+beehive-like Buono drip kettles. George Howell Terroir Coffee Company has Hario dripper brewing instructions here, as has Barismo amongst others, or ask a coffee-loving Japanese friend (if you have none, take solace in yume2coffee's video here and Cafe Iko's video here); Rob from Antwerp Barista shares Jaime van Schyndel's bloom diagram here; La Terza helps with the mathematics of brew volume, coffee dosage, presaturation percentage and time.

Aerobie Aeropress + Hario Skerton grinder + Highlander Supremo Blend beans + Hario Buono drip kettle
The Hario entourage came to the party accompanied by the Aeropress (designed by the maker of my first frisbee, the Aerobie® Superdisc™, which was sadly cold-shouldered by real frisbee-playing friends), an undefinable device that produces a stronger cup that is just as clean as the pour-over. (Best used with stainless steel Coava disk filters say some forummers.) Something like my previous coffee + syringe + hot water experiments but obviously miles better. Aeropress World Championship recipes here; CoffeeGeek discussion on the device here and on the brewing parameters here.

chart from here
To be really in on the scientific action, grind your home-roasted green beans with a Porlex stainless steel Japanese ceramic burr grinder (weighed out with a Salter scale), take the temperature of the liquids with a neat espresso/milk thermometer, measure total dissolved solids (TDS) and make notes about the brix readings of your brew on your refractometer in a bid to find that perfect cup.

Unscientifically, pour-overs (or trickle-downs) and the Aeropress are nice because the coffee has breathing space to display more of a profile than when it's squished up in an espresso shot.

Espresso probably started proliferating in Singapore to accessorise the power-suit of the late 1980s but it was mostly bitter stuff, badly made. Starbucks (but look what Howard D Schultz is doing now) and The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf et al brought ang moh kopi to the masses in the early noughties. The late noughties saw a few places up their game, though it was still mostly consumption-focused, eg. as part of the cafe menu at Huggs Coffee (with its Pret A Manger-invoking star); with cakes and sandwiches for weekend shoppers at the popular Caffe Beviamo at Tanglin Mall; on the drinks list at Boomerang restaurant (La Marzocco machine, beans roasted by Dragon Coffee) and at Jules Cafe Bar (Julian Nuttall, Grinders beans);

Cappuccino, Room with a View
with carrot cake at Room With A View cafe;

shots cafe
as double entrende at shots. cafe - also a photo studio;

Flat White, Leo's Cafe and Bar
to accompany ICC World Cup Cricket watching at Leo's Cafe and Bar.

Cappuccino, Kith Cafe
When space (in a crit theory sort of way) became important, Kith (Jane Hia, Ahmad Hiydayat, house blend of robusta and arabica beans from Brazil, Colombia, Ethiopia and Sumatra)

Black Coffee Dessert Bar, Hitachi Tower
and black coffee dessert bar added a bit of theatre to coffee drinking: riverside view + hjgher interior for Kith and retro-chic for black. Their brews taste fairly "Italian"(?) (though not like Illy or Segafredo Zanetti).
Segafredo, Chevron House

Flat White, The Plain, Craig Road Flat White at The Plain
The Plain's Genovese coffee, poached eggs and vegemite soldiers and waitresses in stripes and denim shorts referencing Melbourne cafes. The barista noticed I'd let my first cup go cold while engrossed in a (the) good book and replaced it without charge saying he just wanted his customers to enjoy themselves.

Bankers and other business suits in the CBD with no time for atmosphere can get themselves served by folks serious about their joe at:

Flat White at Dimbulah, Chevron House
Dimbulah (Queensland beans apparently);

Flat White, Joe & Dough, Suntec
Joe & Dough (beans used up to 2 weeks from roasting, ground on demand);

Viking Coffee
Viking Coffee (Lynden Vikingur, La Cimbali, Meiji milk)

"Flat White" at Espressoul, EFG Building
Elsewhere, Danny Pang (only barista trainer in Singapore authorised by Specialty Coffee Association of Europe) aims to set high standards at Espressoul with their house blend + a La Pavoni. (This "flat white" was by the sole barista at lunch-time on a weekday, who was stressed about refrigerator problems.)

Jamaican Pork Sandwich + Flat White, Forty Hands
Flat White, Forty Hands Forty Hands - Flat White and Chocolate Tart
Majoring on sustainability, Forty Hands (Harry Grover x Spa Esprit Group, Synesso Cyncra) say they ensure their beans come from skilled roasters who have established strong relationships with coffee growers and pay a fair price for their produce. And their coffees are still fairly yummy (though some customers have complained of harshness of roast).

A little upstream from cafes, Graffeo has been roasting the beans served at places like Canelé Pâtisserie and it seems that Toby's Estate (currently served at 1 Caramel) has engaged Deaton Pigot to set up a roastery in Singapore.

Cappuccino, Highlander Coffee Highlander Coffee
If personal attention to the production line is key to the artisanal push, then unpretentious down-to-earth brothers Phil and Cedric Ho of Highlander Coffee are often cited as the early adopters of more holistic control over their cup - bringing in green beans, roasting on-site (even on demand), grinding on demand, brewing to perfection. They serve up the best cup of flat white I've had in Singapore thus far.

(Unfortunately for the diversity of the local coffee scene, Anton Wismann's Wiener Kaffeehaus Viennese Coffee House & Roastery up the street from Highlander, along Neil Road didn't last past the late noughties. Nor did the siphon + Blue Mountain Kohi Ten at Cuppage Terrace.)

IMG_1697 Citrus Sin, Oriole Cafe
Oriole Coffee is known not just for sourcing sustainables, a 75% Colombia and 25% Guatamela house blend, roasting on a Diedrich called "Ella", grinding on demand, brewing on their 3 group La Marzocco etc, their baristas John Ryan Ting and Keith Loh are also known for winning the Singapore National Barista Championships. You can sample their competition cups - the Citrus Sin is especially nice, at the cafe.

"Abstract Art", Flat White, Cuppachoice Flat White, Cuppachoice
Also placed in a past SNBC is Suhaimie Sukiman from Cuppachoice (Has Garanti roaster) - a company that also seeks to do a quality brew. (The art on these flat whites were not made by him but a young chap who confessed he was still learning the tricks. The first flat white on the left was the cold side of lukewarm and therefore not conducive for latte art, but he kindly made another.)

Papa Palheta
Papa Palheta (Leon Foo, Dennis Tang, Diedrich, Probat, Synesso Cyncra 3 group)

Flat White, Loysel's Toy
and its retail outlet, Loysel's Toy (interior by Fuur Associates, lovely textured web design by Foreign Policy Design Group), not only brings raw sustainable personally-sourced coffee beans to the point of fulfilment, your vintage clothes and spectacles will also complement the space at the tasting bar and cafe. Terra Firma blend does well in milk.

"Flat White", Soho7 Cafe
Soho 7 Café & Bistro (Swee Sim, Hans Garanti roaster, roasted beans not more than 3 days old) opened a month ago - delicious burgers, current National Heritage blend of beans from Papua New Guinea, Tanzania, India, Brazil was better cold, definition of antipodean "Flat White" unusual, add to enjoyment with visit to Peek!, also at 36/38 Armenian Street.

Some of these cafes also offer pour-overs, but no niche brewed coffee shops for the filter trendies yet and no visuals on a Chemex, Clover (only in Starbucks i guess) or Clever Coffee Dripper (except on display at Highlander Coffee) either.

Yes, it won't be long before cool kids clutching the "right" gear mushroom up in refurbished shophouses and abandoned warehouses, more for the excitement of owning and running a third wave java joint than loving the coffee.

But hey, whatever, the more the merrier. Exciting times! Far more questions about the whys and whatfors than there are answers.

What a great marvel this God-made world is, that we may never understand all there is about even one of millions of seeds on this earth. And even if we did manage to write a definitive encyclopaedia on all varietals of the beverage-friendly species of the coffea plant, we'd never pin down the perfect way of producing and making a drink from the beans to account for the postmodern array of opinions as to what constitutes "good coffee". We can't even agree on the vocabulary to describe taste sometimes.

Cappuccino, JAMS Cafe, Prologue Bookshop, ION Orchard
Cappuccino, JAMS Cafe, {Prologue} Bookshop, ION Orchard

God's direction for the world, thankfully, is far more clear-cut. Unfortunately, this clarity hasn't helped humans live their lives in the best way:
Pharaoh of Egypt saw that whatever Moses said God would do, he did: all your water will turn to blood? - it did and the people went thirsty and the fish died; frogs will swarm the land? they did; gnats will cover man and beast? they did...and on and on until the deaths of the firstborn of all living things in the land. It wasn't that Pharaoh didn't have enough evidence that God wouldn't do as he promised, and it wasn't that he didn't have half the brain to understand who was doing all this (he admitted as much to Moses when he asked him to relay the message to God that he was sorry not to believe him and to please take away the plagues). He just didn't want to believe that God was in charge of the world (including Egypt) and not him. (Details in Exodus 7-11.)

God's own people, the descendants of Jacob/Israel, were no better. They'd seen the wonders that God had done in Egypt and how he fulfilled his promises of destruction if the Pharaoh did not obey him, yet, once he had brought them out of Egypt, they accused God of being untrustworthy and wanted to go back to slavery in Egypt. Talk about extreme thickness. (Details in Exodus 15:22-17:7, 32-33.) Since they refused to go into the Promised Land flowing with milk and honey, they wandered the desert for forty years.

And when their descendants finally entered the Promised Land, they refused to destroy all the inhabitants even though God had promised to give them victory as he had given them victory over all previous battles. So their enemies became a snare to the people of Israel and they were led to worshipping other gods, abandoning the God who had saved them from Egypt. And so God gave their enemies victory over them instead, as he had already said he would. (Judges 1-2. Listen to David Jackman give an introduction to Judges at St. Helen's Bishopsgate here.)

A few hundred years later, after the whole nation of Israel had been deported by the Babylonians and Assyrians, God had mercy on the Israelites and appointed Cyrus, king of Persia to allow them to return and rebuild the temple in their land. But still!, even the priests who were to mediate between people and God were unfaithful to God. (See Ezra, Nehemiah.)

What impossibly stiff-necked people. Yet, we modern people are no better than any who have come before us. Our sophistication and progressiveness cannot mask the fact that we still worship false gods easily and naturally.

What hope is there? Nothing that can be found inside ourselves so that we can by sheer discipline and willpower live rightly and worship the true God. Which is why Jesus is, literally, a Godsend. Only because he has paid the penalty for our refusal to acknowledge or obey God, and only because he has sent his Spirit to completely overhaul our minds and hearts, can we actually have a relationship with God, so that he will even hear our prayers.

________________________________________________________

*easily obtained in Singapore from Tangs Orchard, Takashimaya in Ngee Ann City, Isetan Scotts, BHG at Bugis.

**
Highlander's Supremo Blend beans ground by Hario Skerton grinder
This grind causes overextraction of Highlander's Supremo blend beans in the Aeropress.

Highlander's Supremo Blend beans ground by Hario Skerton grinder
This grind is better - gives a cup with pleasant acidity and body. The tastebuds vote for this blend from an Aeropress or in a flat white than as an espresso, even though crowd wisdom has crowned single origins kings of the filter, french press and Aeropress.

***
Cupping coffee
The coffee academies at these places will help you to talk single origins, terroir, varietals, blends, roasts, grinds, drips, until you're all jittery (or for some of us, reduced to a state of somnolence) from all that cupped caffeine:
Highlander Coffee
Cuppachoice
Graffeo Coffee Roasting Co.
Être Bon by Boncafe
Baristo

(Note to self:when checking out fragrance during cupping, try not to exhale too forcefully while the snorting snozzer is still in the bowl...)


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